Chapo, this is going to be a long one because this weekend was quite exciting. I’m a little tired now and I will be typing fast so forgive me for any errors.
Saturday started off with breakfast, packing and a call to good old Tshopo. He showed up 50mins later and we began out journey to South Africa (SA) at about 10am. After stopping for gas (which I paid for) we took the ~30min trip to the SA border. A quick check of the passports we drove across, checked passports again and then were in SA! 11km later we were at Madikwe Game Reserve. However, we were naïve to think that we had arrived at our destination, the Thakadu River Lodge. No, Tshopo would put his Toyota carrola to the test, for 2 hours through the dirt roads that transect Madikwe. We never toped 20 KMH, and often had to get out to allow his shallow chasse clear pointy rocks (although often none too successful). Finally at our destination, we upped our price of 600 Pula to 800Pula because we felt bad for him. He took it, but seemed none to pleased. He agreed to meet up the next day (at a point before the road got too bad) at 1pm. We all hoped he would be there.
The trip, which we expected to take 1 hour 30 mins, took 3 hours and, of course, we missed brunch. We had just enough time to enjoy the cocktails and warm towel they gave to us when we walked in and check out our “tents.” I say “tents” because these were like no other tents known to man. The size of a Gaborone house, the “tent” greeted us with a larger than life bed, open showers, bath tub and a fantastic deck warmed by the inviting sunlight (see pictures). I grabbed a scone and sat outside to read my book for the half hour we had before tea and our first game ride.
Tea, of course, was amazing. I wish we had that in America, life would be so much more stress free… Anyways, we met our guide, Ignatious. A 10 year vet. of the Madikwe Reserve characterized by disfiguring burn scars covering the left side of his face. However, his charm and warm candor distracted me from his apparent accident. We joined two native SA families and go on the iconic game jeep (although it was a Toyota). It was designed to be a 3 hour game drive.
About 30 mins into it, after admiring some Zebras, a very large male elephant stepped into view and proceeded with a purpose into the road. I suggest following along with the sequence of pictures I have posted because they help illustrate the story. Anyways, we followed him at a distance while he took notice of us but didn’t seem to care much. He charged up a steep hill with disregard for a “slow” sign. Just over the hill he had lead us to his watering hole with about a dozen relaxing elephants. I should mention that this whole time we were made quite aware of this elephants “musk.” He was ready to mate and slowly leaked urine to attack females. Apparently he can leak up to 200L/day. We thought this was the purpose of the watering hole, but after a quick drink and the other elephants scattering, he turns and seeks out the youngest female. She protested immediately with a loud roar (sounded much like those machines from War of the Worlds). Nevertheless, she urinated to allow him to sample her readiness to mate. Ignatious told us that if he mounted, he would surely break her back. Just as he was saying this, a large female charges in from behind our field of view. They charge surprisingly quietly and we didn’t notice her until it was too late. She trumpeted at the offending male which got his attention and allowed the young female to stomp away. Now, 2 yards away ( I have video and pics of this) the two large elephants were joined by at least two others and a staring contest ensued. The female stared at us and put her head down (a sign of we shouldn’t be here right now). Ignatious added to my adrenalin by saying very calmly “do not move at all.” We were now locked in the same staring contest, finally broken by the defecation of the original large male that distracted the angry female. Ignatious started the truck and fled (be it only about 10 meters) where we sat and watched the fight break up peacefully. The male left, alone.
Following that, we were happy to spot Zebras, Impala, warthogs, wildebeests and various other non-threatening animals. Right before we decided to take a break for tea and drinks, Ignatious spotted lion tracks. He followed them for a good 30 mins, but gave up as it was getting close to dark and we needed to stop before then. We settled in an open field, enjoyed beers, stories, and peeing in the open bush. We took pictures of the sunset and of ourselves and simply enjoyed the moment.
We packed it up as it got too dark to see two feet in front of oneself. The stars were amazing. I’ve been a lot of places around the world, but this was the best I’ve ever seen, hands down. Too bad you cant take a picture of it.
Anyways, we started the truck and left in the very cold blackness to try to find some nocturnal animals. 400 meters down the path our lights caught a confident and intimidating figure laying down in the middle of the road. It was a male lion. We stopped dead in our tracks, Ignatious smiles and states “he was tracking us.” Great, now this is two times we’ve gotten in the way of wild African animals. Again, look at the pics for the story. Anyways, they lion looked at us, stood up and walked into the think bush. Determined, Ignatious followed, using the lion as a guide. He lead us directly to his two sisters who were enjoying a freshly caught warthog. We settled 3 meters away from this feast and sat quietly, snapping pictures feverishly (I also have video of this if anyone wants to see it, it is far better than the pictures). As one of the sisters feasted into the belly, we could all enjoy the fresh intestine smell. Reminded me of Gross Lab. Now, next to the feast, the male sat playing politely with is sister (she seemed to be injured from the kill). To the crunching of bones these two rolled around. They looked like two cute house cats but, by no means would I dangle a feather from a string in front of them.
We left the sight shocked and amazed and returned home in the cold just 30 mins late for dinner. They had transformed the reception into a nicely decorated restaurant fit for the four course meal we were about to have. After a delicious meal we returned home to a transformed tent. Our beds were turned down with a SA mint on the pillow and electric blankets turned on. I showered, read my book and went to bed, ready for my 6am wake up call from Ignatious.
Following a bizarre night of JW talking in his sleep and Mefloquine induced vivid dreams, I wake at 6:30 to loud roars followed by a loud “JOSH”! I thought it was another dream, but no, it was Lisa out side my tent. We were going to be late for the morning game ride. JW and I rushed and made it just in time for us to leave. Ignatious informs us that the roaring was from the male lion we saw from last night, declaring his territory. So we rushed off to find him. I feel like this is a stupid thing to do. The lion is saying , “this is my land, don’t come in it” and here we are rushing to it. But, no luck. A few chases into the bush turned up nothing, not even tracks. We eventually stopped for morning tea and coffee, took pictures and peed in the open bush.
However, our random darting but us into fresh territory and we were soon surrounded by dozens of Zebra, wildebeests and Giraffes. They are really amazing to see up close. And to see them interacting with Zebra but the one lone Giraffe at the DC zoo to shame. It was a majestic feeling. To be the smallest animal in sight, we just as curious as them, staring at one another. I was at my happiest here. The Giraffe just seem so happy to be alive. And to be close enough to see they long path food had to travel was interesting. How did such a ridiculous animal survive evolution? Ignatious was a wealth of knowledge and I enjoyed his scientific take on each animal.
Our morning ended with a long drive to find wild dogs. We traveled an hour away (still all in the reserve) to see them. This was apparently the rarest sight in the bush. We fond them relaxing, occasionally raising their head to sample the sounds of interested humans. This hour drive brought us in late for brunch, the cook even yelled at Ignatious over the radio. Ignatious bravely got us home by parking the truck somewhere out in the bush, getting out, and leading us as we walked the shortcut along the river (apparently filled with crocs and hippos) to the lodge.
Brunch was delicious and filling. We said out byes, settled the bill and left to meet Tshopo in the designated area. As we pulled up, he was there. Good old Tshopo. His loyalty is comforting. The drive home was pleasant and 1.5 hours shorter.
When arriving home, I showered and JW and I went to the internet café at Riverwalk. I caught up with family and friends, spoke with my grandma, Monu, and at dinner. Returning home to the others, we played a quick couple games of rummy until Elizabeth (and her dad) called. Following a quick talk with him she hung up and I sat down to write this. But not its bed time. Sorry this is so long, but hope you enjoyed!
